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[vc_row][vc_column][vc_empty_space][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column 0=""][vc_column_text]Nikon Ambassador Kristian Bogner exclusively used the Nikon Keymission 360 camera to create this video.  The footage has been creatively edited to demonstrate that you can control the viewer experience in the edit process, from tilt, pan, and roll, to fisheye effect and much more. The Nikon Keymission 360 is part of a an new and exciting way to tell immersive stories while being a part of them.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]One of my favourite tech advances in recent years is high speed flash sync for my DSLR.  I use it in freezing the action, like this martini glass water splash image where I am syncing to my Broncolor flash at 1/8000sec on my Nikon D5 or where I am using my Nikon SB-5000 or Broncolor Move 1200 to give me some directional light on an athlete or fashion shoot outdoors and overpower the sunlight by adjusting my sync speed.

Radio technology in the flashes and triggers now allow you to shoot wirelessly at long distances, sync at very high speeds and offer many additional creative features.  Most high speed triggers even allow you to control your external flash from the on-camera trigger so that you can work substantially faster in the field.

For me personally, here are a few of my favourite high speed sync products that I use every day:  Nikon’s new SB-5000 flash with WR-A10 remote and either the Nikon D5 camera or D500 camera.  With this setup I can control multiple SB-5000 flashes right from my in-camera menu and sync to my camera at up to 1/8000sec.  It works flawlessly and it has opened up a world of portable possibilities.

The other new product that I am blown away with is Broncolor’s new RFS 2.2 Transceiver.  I just had to pop this on any of my Nikon Camera’s hot shoes and turn it on and it syncs both my Broncolor Move and Scoro S all the way up to 1/8000sec as well.  I can also use both the Broncolor and Nikon high speed syncs simultaneously for lots of creative power.

I will be demonstrating both of these setups at my photographic rockstar courses coming up in Toronto and Canmore.

You can also read more about High Speed Sync in my Photo News Article for Spring 2017.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_single_image image="4722" img_size="full" alignment="center"][/vc_column][/vc_row]

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_empty_space][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Congratulations Nikon on an extraordinary 100 years!!!  I am proud to be a Nikon Ambassador and be a part of your success![/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_empty_space][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Kristian shares winter photography tips for finding the perfect photo location and explains how to use in-camera settings to create images that pop with vivid colour.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

It was only a year ago that I had an amazing trip to Nepal. I saw extraordinary historic sites, breathtaking landscapes and met incredibly kind and wonderful people. Its heartbreaking to hear of the destruction and grief that has settled upon Nepal after two major earthquakes on April 25th and May 12th. Sadly thousands of lives have been lost with thousands more injured and Unesco World Heritages sites badly damaged. There is a great need for relief and humanitarian assistance in Nepal.

Perhaps you have donated to a charity of your choice already or have one picked out to donate to, if not and you would like to learn more about how you can contribute to the disaster relief;

please see the Canadian Red Cross website for more information. You can donate directly through their website or learn more about their relief efforts by following the link.

DONATE HERE

There are many great charities out there who are aiding Nepal through this arduous time, please send positive thoughts and if you like monetary donations to a country very much in need of support.

[vc_row css=".vc_custom_1416547086181{padding-bottom: 60px !important;}"][vc_column][vc_column_text 0=""]Whether travelling on a month-long expedition or a two-day trek in the mountains, there are many factors to consider which can make or break a photo adventure.  Here are some tips on what to pack and photographic insights to help you achieve outstanding travel images.

If you have a travel itinerary, take a few moments to go over it from a photographic perspective.  Think about the kind of images you would like to shoot and visualize the final images on your wall. Then think about the gear you will need to achieve your vision.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=".vc_custom_1416547086181{padding-bottom: 60px !important;}"][vc_column][vc_column_text 0=""]

1 - Packing the Right Gear for the Trip

[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image="4371" img_size="full" alignment="center" css_animation="appear" img_link_large="yes"][vc_column_text 0=""]It is always a trade-off between having all the gear you want to bring, and what you will actually be able to carry with you. Personally, I always end up taking a little bit more than I need, and I lug it around just to make sure that I am covered for any photo op that presents itself.

The main camera body you bring should be one that feels right in your hands, and the camera that you are most comfortable with. Take the time to play with settings and read the manual before you go on a big trip so that you will be ready when that incredible shot comes into your viewfinder. When selecting a good travel camera, I would suggest one with good high ISO capabilities so you can capture great images in low light, this is essential if you want to capture hand-held sunrise/sunset images, and when you have to shoot in low-light locations where a tripod is not permitted. You might also consider bringing a smaller backup camera, or even a phone camera - just in case something goes wrong.  Zoom lenses can cover a range of focal lengths and are a great choice for travel, especially if they have vibration reduction capabilities.  The zoom lenses give you more composition options, and avoiding lens changes reduces the chance of getting dust on your digital sensor which can be frustrating when you are on the go.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=".vc_custom_1416547225652{margin-bottom: 30px !important;padding-bottom: 60px !important;}"][vc_column][vc_column_text 0=""]

2 - Bring a Tripod

[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image="4376" img_size="full" alignment="center" css_animation="appear" img_link_large="yes"][vc_column_text 0=""]If you can bring a travel tripod like the compact lightweight and versatile carbon fibre models, you open up another realm of possibilities.  My fav is my Manfrotto 055CXPro4 Carbon with MH055MO-Q5 Ball head.  From time lapse images to long exposures that record movement in waves, star trails, and a range of night subjects, the tripod is essential for low light photography and light painting.  Even though a tripod can be frustrating to lug around, it can be a very necessary tool for getting outstanding travel images.

If you plan on shooting exposures longer than 30 seconds you will need to set your camera to bulb and use a remote trigger accessory like Nikon’s MC-36 Remote Cord to set your desired exposure duration.  This is also a great tool to reduce camera vibration on any tripod exposures.  I also recommend packing a headlamp or flashlight if you are doing night shots. You can use it for some fun light painting, setting your focus distance, and finding your gear after a night shoot.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=".vc_custom_1416547236560{padding-bottom: 60px !important;}"][vc_column][vc_column_text 0=""]

3 - Lighting on the Go

[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image="3345" img_size="full" alignment="center" css_animation="appear" img_link_large="yes"][vc_column_text 0=""]A simple round collapsible silver/white reflector can be a great asset if you plan on shooting portraits, and it is a great way to add light for macro photography.  A reflector is a very light weight addition to your gear, and you can get them in all sizes. I would suggest that you choose the largest reflector that can fold to fit into your camera bag. An easy travel tip for using a reflector is to ask someone to hold the reflector at about 45 degrees from the camera angle, and point it to redirect sunlight onto the subject. This usually makes for a beautiful portrait light source.

You might also bring a flash flash and I use it like the reflector to fill in light or soften shadows.  For this fill-flash technique I recommend setting the flash output to about -2EV so that it fills in the shadow, but doesn’t overpower it.  Flash is also great to control the light on your subject while allowing you to expose for the background or sky.  With my Nikon SB-910 flash I usually keep the bulb diffuser on it to soften the light source. You can even use your flash to bounce light off your reflector for some more directional lighting.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=".vc_custom_1416547259796{padding-bottom: 60px !important;}"][vc_column][vc_column_text 0=""]

4 - Pick Your Pack

[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image="4384" img_size="full" alignment="center" css_animation="appear" img_link_large="yes"][vc_column_text 0=""]One of my main concerns when travelling is keeping my gear safe and protected while giving me the most functionality and comfort.  It is worth investing in a good camera bag or backpack.  My new favourite camera bag is a trekking-backpack design with all-weather features and is the maximum size that still fits carry-on luggage on an aircraft. I was recently trekking and biking through Nepal and I had to carry all my gear on my back for long days of activity. The photo backpack was amazingly comfortable and functional. It even had a built-in hydration system. Make sure it fits your back properly and has a waist belt to take the pressure on your back and balance it around your hips.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=".vc_custom_1416547259796{padding-bottom: 60px !important;}"][vc_column][vc_column_text 0=""]

5 - Secure your Gear

[/vc_column_text][vc_column_text 0=""]I recommend bringing a locking wide climbing carabiner, so that you can clip your pack to things to protect it from a quick grab theft. This is just a quick deterrent, but it has served me on all of my trips so far. You can also get a palm sized retractable lock.  Another thing I always pack is a Seal Line Dry Sack that I can sling over my shoulder - I put my SLR and lens in the Dry Sack if it is raining and I want to keep the camera dry but still have really quick access to it.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=".vc_custom_1416547259796{padding-bottom: 60px !important;}"][vc_column][vc_column_text 0=""]

6 - Power to Go

[/vc_column_text][vc_column_text 0=""]Always bring at least one extra battery and an extra battery charger if you have one, just in case. You may run into voltage issues at some point on your trip, so plan ahead and bring a suitable plug adapter. If your trip includes a lot of driving time I would definitely invest in a car charger, this has saved me many times when my assignments took me to remote destinations that had very limited or unreliable power.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=".vc_custom_1416547259796{padding-bottom: 60px !important;}"][vc_column][vc_column_text 0=""]

7 - Remember the Memory Cards!

[/vc_column_text][vc_column_text 0=""]Bring enough storage.  There is nothing more frustrating than running out of storage when you are only half way through your trip!  I usually bring a laptop and a backup external hard drive that I put in a waterproof Pelican box, but if you don’t want to bring a laptop, make sure you buy extra memory cards for your trip.  Even if they are cheaper or slower cards, you won’t regret the purchase if it gives you the freedom to shoot without the worry of running out of space.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=".vc_custom_1416547259796{padding-bottom: 60px !important;}"][vc_column][vc_column_text 0=""]

8 - Keep it Clean!

[/vc_column_text][vc_column_text 0=""]Finally, I recommend bringing a small emergency sensor cleaning kit just in case you get a big piece of dust on your sensor and it starts showing up in all of your images.  I use Visible Dust V-swabs and their VDust Plus cleaning liquid.  There are many instructional videos you can watch to learn how to clean your sensor - it is not difficult, but it helps to have a steady hand and a gentle touch.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=".vc_custom_1416547259796{padding-bottom: 60px !important;}"][vc_column][vc_column_text 0=""]

9 - Make Each Day Count

[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image="4382" img_size="full" alignment="center" css_animation="appear" img_link_large="yes"][vc_column_text 0=""]The best time to shoot is usually when the light is low and pleasing - these are the golden times around sunrise and sunset.  Set your alarm and get outside before sunrise to be ready for the ideal moment.  The warm light on buildings and landscapes, and the images of the world waking up can make for magical photographs.  Go for a walk through the streets of a village and see what you find. If you are not an early riser, you can always head back to bed after capturing an hour of the sweet light.

When you are travelling with a group it can sometimes be tough to stop and get outstanding images.  Always look for good locations for photo opportunities. Try to find a spot with a good vantage point, particularly around sunset, so that you can be near your group but still capture that amazing light.  Show your images to the others - when they get involved and see that they are included in the photos, they will be more patient as you take the time to line up the perfect shots.  You might even find them to be receptive when you ask them to help with some evening light painting.

Take time to experiment be creative with different camera settings and techniques.  Use this time to expand your technique toolkit.  Take a few test shots using different white balance settings, and try adjusting your in-camera saturation and picture controls to add extra sizzle to your images.  Shoot some artistic black and white images of selected subjects, especially people, using the monochrome RAW setting.  Remember that if you shoot RAW you can always go back to colour with software after the shoot. If you shoot JPEG, remember to switch back to colour after you experiment with the monochrome settings![/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=".vc_custom_1416547259796{padding-bottom: 60px !important;}"][vc_column][vc_column_text 0=""]

10 - Make a Connection

[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image="4377" img_size="full" alignment="center" css_animation="appear" img_link_large="yes"][vc_column_text 0=""]If you see an interesting person, don't be shy to ask for permission to photograph them.  Do it in a playful manner, usually a simple nod as you point to your camera will do the trick.  You will either receive a nod or pose in response, or they will waive their arms or run away.  If you photograph them and they hold out their hand to ask for money it can be a difficult situation.  After many years of seeing how this money transfer can ruin a village and cause people - especially children - to beg for money instead of pursuing their dreams and lives, I generally don’t give money.  But I always take the time to show them the image and build a connection or bridge with them.  Sometimes I do slideshows for the villages in evenings or send prints to my subjects.  I always try to honour my subjects and reflect back to them their beauty and how I see them.  In the very rare event that a person wants money and is upset for any reason, I will show them the camera as I delete the photograph.  So that’s the worst thing that could happen which isn’t a big issue. But generally, you make some amazing connections on a trip with the people you shoot.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=".vc_custom_1416547259796{padding-bottom: 60px !important;}"][vc_column][vc_single_image image="4386" img_size="full" alignment="center" css_animation="appear" img_link_large="yes"][vc_column_text 0=""]When shooting something amazing I sometimes get very intense on getting a perfect shot. I have even had people say to me that I have been so focused on taking a photo that I missed the moment.  However I believe that when I am looking through the lens, I am just witnessing the moment from the perspective of my camera. In my mind, I am experiencing the moment and creating it at the same time.  Remember, the more energy you devote to creating an image, the better it will be.  Listen to your instincts and trust them, take a few risks and observe the visual rewards that follow.

Finally, take a few moments every night to flip through your images from the day.  Evaluate your exposure, zoom in and check your focus. Make mental notes on what worked and what didn’t.  Delete bad images as you go through the files, especially if your storage is limited.  Make sure you put your batteries on charge in the evening, backup your images, and do a quick lens cleaning so you will be good to go for the morning.

Challenge yourself to come back with some exceptional images from your trip.  Think about the people you will share your images with, and let that fuel your passion.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

"One of my greatest Olympic moments was shooting the Gold Medal Hockey game at the Vancouver 2010 Olympics!!!  I was sitting front row between the Newsweek and Sports Illustrated photographers right next to the goal, the crowd was electric and the game was beyond EPIC!! I was so very honoured have been able to shoot Team Canada win Gold on Canadian soil, and capture so many Hockey moments with excellence."

 

For a photographer the Gold Medal hockey game is by far the toughest Olympic sport to get in to and shoot because there are only a certain amount of spots available for photographers in the stadium.  So when I got there, even though I had credentials, I didn't know where I would be sitting or if I would be able to get in to the game at all.  I kept positive and ended up getting very lucky with the spot I got in the front row, but I was right behind the glass.  I had to improvise on the spot and I extended my lens hood with black tape to be able to attach to the glass to minimize reflections.  It worked great and I was able to get a fantastic eye-level perspective and still got razor sharp images.  Pro Tip: always keep some black electrical tape in your camera bag for situations just like this.   Speaking of luck: during the game an olympic puck flew off the ice, into the air and actually landed in my open camera bag without even breaking a lens!!  It sits in my trophy case as a reminder of what happens when you go for it, allow and surrender to the flow.

 

It was an amazing game and I fed off the energy capturing hundreds of great shots of our Team Canada!!  I took time whenever there was a break in the action to review my images, zoom in and make sure my images and settings were dialled, including the perfect colour balance.   My exposure setting was generally around  f/5.0 at 1/1600 sec - ISO 5000 on my Nikon D3s.  I hope you enjoy a few of my favourite shots from the game and share on Facebook / Twitter by clicking below.

 

Way to go Canada on winning another GOLD for Canada in Sochi!!!!

 

"Here are a few of my best images of Patrick Chan from from the Vancouver Olympics.  I am always amazed by the height and amplitude of his jumps.  In of the images he looks like he's flying!!  Congratulations on the Silver Medal at Sochi Patrick."

 

Visualize the Final Image before you Click

Like an Olympic athlete who visualizes their entire routine or event, I am a strong believer in visualizing the final image before you click the shutter. I see the image in a very final form, the look I want, including any treatments, filters or effects I may add in post processing.

I may even visualize the image cropped as it may appear in the final brochure, magazine or canvas fine art piece. I call this “shooting with the end result in mind” and I find that this gives me greater clarity that allows me to execute the shot more effectively, which translates into a much better final image. I look at it as “Excellence in, Excellence Out.”

The Olympics have always been a very special time for me and I have captured some incredible Winter Olympic moments over the years.  With the Olympics happening right now in Sochi I thought that I would honour the Spirit of the Olympics and Our Canadian Athletes by sharing an Olympic Moment, Photo, Story, Tip or Video from my past Olympic experiences for each day of the Sochi Winter Olympics (Feb. 7, 2014 - Feb. 23, 2014).

 

I am calling this series of posts "The Spirit of the Olympics: A Journey Through The Lens" and I hope to add to the inspirational spirit of the Olympics by sharing with you some of my most amazing Olympic moments through the perspective of my Nikon lens.  Photography captures the energy of the moment and I hope that you can feel some of the energy from the images I will share with you over the next few weeks.

Vancouver 2010 Closing Ceremonies

I thought I would begin this journey with some of the images I captured at the Vancouver 2010 Closing Ceremonies which tell the story of the passing of the torch from Vancouver to Sochi.

 

I would love to hear your comments  or if you have any of your own Olympic moments to share on Twitter or Facebook.  Enjoy!!

Learn how to enhance your landscape images and more with Nikon Capture NX2 Software.  Edit directly to your NEF raw files using colour control points.

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All photography and content herin is Copyright © Kristian Bogner.  All Rights Reserved.  Images may not be copied or used without express written content by Kristian Bogner.

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